Country
Focus: Tibet
In Ruckus [Vol. 7,
Iss. 4, February 2004]
Tibet - the roof of the world. A land of
mountains and monks, where crumbling forts larger than the Husky
stadium dot the dry landscape. One can explore the icy plateau for
weeks, drinking from partially frozen streams, encountering only
a handful of yak salt caravans and Tibetans on horseback. An immensely
religious place, where the average impoverished Tibetan family still
donates a large part of its meager monthly income to the nearest
monastery. Once considered the indomitable spiritual center of the
world, Tibet is now a buffer zone controlled by China strategically
useful during the sporadic clashes with adjoining India.
Anyone visiting Tibet expecting to find a
bloody civil war pitting robed Buddhists with ceremonial swords
against wave after human wave of Chinese soldiers will be disappointed.
Chances are, in fact, that you wouldnt see that many Tibetans
at all (assuming the border guards even let you in, of course).
A highly successful repopulation campaign has insured that over
half of Tibets population now consists of ethnic Chinese.
Most businesses are Chinese-owned. Mandarin,
not Tibetan, is the compulsory language taught at schools. Banking,
newspapers, television, education, and government bureaucracy are
all little different from that encountered elsewhere in China.
It is in the countryside, away from the shiny
new high-rise buildings and army checkpoints, that one can still
taste the true Tibet. Mind you, the authorities are less than enthusiastic
about foreign visitors roaming freely outside the neatly designated
tourist region centered on Tibets former capital Lhasa.
Get caught, and you can expect to have your passport ripped up in
front of your eyes and pay your way out on the earliest flight.
Manage to break out of the tourist circle,
and youll see what all the fuss is about (Ruckus
international correspondents always travel with two passports, by
the way). Graveyards of stumps greet you where Tibets majestic
forests once stood. Tibets turquoise highland lakes, whose
effluent provides water for three quarters of our planets
population, have become chemical dumping grounds. Uranium and Iridium
mining operations, the size of Green Lake, scar the shades of purple
and yellow. And everywhere are the surviving remains of Buddhist
temples and monasteries which once characterized nay, defined,
Tibetan life - now fading into the dust.
Destruction of culture and language, rape
of the environment, unsustainable short-term policy making
in short, the Chinese government is doing exactly what capable
governments have been doing to their weaker neighbors ever since
the advent of agriculture. Life, wouldnt you agree, is largely
a matter of perspective?
To Liberate or To Occupy, That is the Question
The Bad Yellow Occupation Version:
October 1950. Some 40 000 PLA (Peoples Liberation
Army = Chinese) troops cross the Drichu river into Tibet. A few
Tibetans on horseback, wielding outdated muskets, provide negligible
resistance. Within days the Chinese occupation of Tibet is complete.
Human rights abuses abound! No democracy or freedom! Religious suppression!
The CIA sets up a secret camp in Upper Mustang in northern Nepal,
training partisan Tibetan freedom fighters. The desperate measure
of western goodwill fails.
The Liberation from Evil Western
Influence Version:
October 1950. After centuries of oppression,
the Tibetan people are finally liberated from the evil clutches
of feudal life. The threatening influence of the colonial powers
most notably the US and Britain can finally be stamped
out. The end of a highly class-based hierarchical society! Equality
for all! Long live chairman Mao! The CIA starts training imperialist
terrorists over the border in Nepal, but the strength of the people
not to mention helicopter gunships and the help of the corrupt
Nepalese government win the day.
Whatever version you decide to go with, one
thing is certain: Nobody noticed. Nobody cared. The worlds
attention was focused firmly on Korea, where General MacArthur crossed
the 38th parallel on the very same day of the invasion. The well-known
mantra of the Buddha of Compassion, Om Mani Pad Ma Hum, is
supplanted by Mao Tsetung wan sui.
What about all those peace-loving boys and
girls at the United Nations? The matter would have been completely
ignored if it wasnt for an obscure representative from El
Salvador bringing the matter to the forefront. (Trust those damn
South Americans to always stand up for whats right instead
of focusing on the issues! Theyre going to want to
design their own trade policies next - imagine!) Thankfully, the
Tibet situation was thrust back into obscurity by the British representative
to the General Assembly: the Committee [does] not know exactly
what [is] happening in Tibet nor [is] the legal position of the
country very clear. Well, jolly good, thats the end
of that, then
The chaos and destruction of the 1966 Cultural
Revolution also spread to Tibet, and the consequences of which are
still clearly visible today. The revolution translated as a heightened
struggle against the remaining old feudal practices. Red Guards
roamed the cities and villages, demanding, amongst other things,
that: (1) All observance of religious festivals be abolished; (2)
People destroy all photos of the Dalai Lama; (3) No one recite prayers;
(4) All monasteries and temples save a handful protected
by government be converted for general public use; and (5)
Feudal practices, which includes throwing parties and
exchanging gifts, be abolished.
Ruckus travel advice #001-A(i): "Never, ever, ever
photograph military personnel"
Tibet Today
Fifty years is a long time. On the whole,
Tibetans are probably better off than Aboriginals in Australia,
Hottentots in South Africa and Native Americans in the US. China
has proven itself remarkably capable at assimilating new peoples
and territories peacefully and quietly more so than perhaps
any other empire in history. Furthermore, the last few centuries
in particular have seen the steady export of Chinese culture
to all corners of the globe. Chinatowns are blossoming everywhere,
from Seattle to Singapore to Sydney. The real question raised by
Tibet and its sovereignity, and the Ruckus question of the
month, is: would you prefer to live in a world with (1) China; (2)
the U.S.; or (3) both simultaneously as the dominant superpower?
If its any conciliation, its unlikely that youll
have any say in the matter.
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