Turmoil
in the Himalayas and the Dawn of a New Era
In
Ruckus [Vol. 8, Iss. 4, February 2005]
Nepal,
remembered by every ones parents as the
primary destination for high-altitude, low-cost karma (not to mention
hashish) has recently seen the second subduction of its government
in about as many years. Ruckus investigates whats up and whats
down on the roof of the world.
Introduction
Precariously sandwiched between the two largest
populations on Earth, populations from whose ranks the upcoming
centurys global leaders will rise, lies the mountain kingdom
of Nepal. It is the authors opinion that, because of the unique
niche Nepal and its turmoil occupy in time and space, events there
may well represent nothing less than the opening chapter of a new
unwritten volume of global history.
For the first time in recent memory, a popular
socialist uprising has been allowed to spawn, grow and blossom without
Western interference. The die has been cast, and it is not for lack
of interest that there are no WASPs at the table. Rather, it is
because Delhi and Beijing have firmly taken their opposing seats
and, having become irritated with their bothersome sting, have decided
not to let them play.
June 2001: Early Tremors
It is around 9:00 pm on Friday evening on
the first day of June 2001 in Kathmandu, Nepal. 29-year old crown
prince Dipendra, the Eton-educated heir to the throne, walks room
to room in the Narayanhiti Royal Palace where his family is enjoying
a social get-together. Slung over his shoulders are an M-16 A2®
assault rifle and an Uzi submachine gun. Screams and gun-fire
ring out, scarcely heard over the merciless clatter of the monsoon
rains outside. Minutes after committing patricide, matricide, fratricide
and sororicide, the prince completes the brutal -cide
omnibus by shooting himself in the head.
Shockwaves carrying the news of the royal
familys unexpected slaughter surge through the Himalayan kingdom.
All television and radio broadcasting is suspended. Army checkpoints
manned by fresh nervous soldiers spring up in remote corners like
virgin rhodondendron buds poking through the snowy sheaths of winter.
From the slopes of the worlds tallest peaks in the north,
to the malaria-infested tropical forests in the south, Nepals
24 million-or-so citizens brace for uncertain times.
After all, no-one knows better than the Nepalese
that tremors often forewarn of larger earthquakes to come.
The Nepalese Peoples War: The Avalanche Begins
Technically, Nepal has been in a state of
civil war since February 13th, 1996. Like a slab of melting ice,
the insurgents (variably termed Maoists, Terrorists
or Republicans depending on whom you talk to) are slowly
diffusing their control inwards to the political heart of Nepal:
Kathmandu Valley. About three quarters of Nepal lies under their
control today.
Predictably, the Nepalese government has
whole-heartedly embraced the anti-terrorism rubric that has enslaved
much of the world since 9/11. Many media commentators have simplistically
likened the insurgency in Nepal to the 1970s Khmer Rouge offensive
in Cambodia and the 1980s and 1990s Sendero Luminoso
attacks in Peru. All derive(d) their support primarily from rural
peasantry. As a group of armed self-described Maoists in the Manang
region of western Nepal explained to me, their struggle is against
the absolute and despotic monarchy, with the express aim of establishing
a Peoples democracy.
The Maoists I spoke to, however, were not
brainwashed killers. They were laborers, farmers, porters; they
were fathers and mothers. Indeed, only two facets made them stand
out. Firstly, many of them were women. This was surprising in the
context of the strongly dichotomous gender relations prevalent throughout
Nepal. Secondly, they were heavily armed.
To date, no foreign trekkers have been reported
killed in the conflict. However, as noted by Amnesty International
and other human rights groups, the encircle-and-kill
tactics employed by the Nepalese army - borrowed from Chiang Kai-sheks
brutal communist extermination methods in China in the
1930s - have led to uncounted civilian deaths.
The Maoists, meanwhile, have implemented
carefully orchestrated and highly selective deadly raids against
police and army structures, and against key government representatives
and supporters.
February 2005: The Political Earthquake?
Following the murder of the highly popular
King Birendra in 2001, the throne was occupied by Birendras
younger brother, successful businessman and now king, Gyanendra.
Almost immediately upon rising to power, the latter began to systematically
reverse the steps taken by his royal predecessor to mold Nepals
governance into one based on a democratic parliamentary constitution.
He fired the Prime-Minister amidst massive protests in October 2002,
only to reinstate him after an 18-month spell of experimental multi-party
politics.
The last two years have seen the standard
array of collapsed peace talks, broken seize-fires, delayed and
cancelled elections, and escalating violence. Recently, on the February
1st of this year, King Gyanendra may have made his last desperate
move. In addition to once more sacking the Prime-Minister and instating
a brand-new 10-member cabinet, he officially introduced severe restrictions
on civil liberties, including freedom of the press, constitutional
protection against censorship and rights against preventive detention.
(Ruckus prize-question of the month: which other nation also recently
oh, never mind.)
The Future: Aftershock
At the time of writing, the situation in
Nepal is far from normal. The Kings grip on the press is tighter
than ever. The General Secretary of the Federation of Nepalese Journalists,
Bishnu Nisthuri, was arrested on February 5 and its President, Tara
Nath Dahal, has taken refuge in the United Nations headquarters
in the capital. Many of the journalists who have escaped arrest
have gone into hiding. Networks of all the political parties have
been rapidly and methodologically dismantled to impede their coordination.
One of the largest parties in the recently dissolved government,
CPN-UML, has gone entirely underground. Almost all other prominent
political leaders are either under house arrest or have been detained.
Finally, in a BBC interview on February 7th,
a leader of the now-underground Nepali Congress confided that the
displaced government is considering joining hands with the Maoists
and launching a mass-movement to unseat the king. Many analysts
would now agree that a Revolution in the Himalayas within the upcoming
weeks has turned from being near-inconceivable to being near-inevitable.
But what will the new day bring?
Afterword
Reader, we quite unexpectedly find ourselves
at the door-step of a new era. Outside, over the western horizon,
the sun has passed through its zenith largely unnoticed and
is steadily continuing along its indifferent arc. Soon, the sun
will set on the long shadows of over half a millennium of Euro-American
dominance. Before the fall of night, let us daringly climb atop
the slowly crumbling roof of western civilization and turn our backs
on the approaching sunset, with its falsely comforting final rays
of warmth.
Now, let us turn our faces into the rising
easterly winds and look towards the horizon, where the faint red
glow of an approaching dawn is already visible through the binoculars
of history. Let us squint our eyes, reader, so that we may perhaps
steal an occasional glimpse through the slowly lifting cloud canopy.
There, do you see it too? Surely those lands, rising out of the
obscurity of time once more, are the vague outlines of China and,
a bit further still, India.
Reader, even if we will never be able to
adequately prepare ourselves for this new day, let us at least find
consolation in having been allowed to gaze upon its birth!
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